Odisha, a State in eastern India, is well-renowned for it’s rich cultural heritage. The State is also increasingly gaining traction from tourists, both domestic and international, who come here not only to appreciate this heritage, but also enjoy it’s lush beaches, and unique handicrafts. Although I had been to Odisha and specifically Bhubaneshwar on multiple occasions; on this recent trip I went after doing some research with an aim to provide my readers with a guide to make their own travel more enjoyable & hassle-free.
Aptly known as the “City of Temples”, Bhubaneshwar is an amazing destination for history buffs. It is said that the city is dotted with more than 700 temples in a wide variety of styles. Venturing into the old part of town, one will be transcended into an altogether different era. The main temples, constructed fabled Kalinga style of Architecture, are exquisitely crafted, and many of them are quite well preserved. The photographer in you will definitely return back from Bhubaneshwar with some timeless memories..
In this first among a series of blogs, I will tell you about the capital city of Bhubaneshwar with a snapshot of different temples that dot parts of the town. There will also be number of practical tips on navigating around, guide about where to stay, what to carry, places to dine, & other logistic considerations.
Lingraja Temple
Lingraja Temple is the largest, and arguably one of the oldest temples of Bhubaneshwar. It is also definitely be most venerated. However, in contrast to other historical temples of the city, Lingraja is still used for offering prayers to Lord Shiva, the presiding deity. In fact, it is an important site of pilgrimage in the Eastern coast.
It is believed by some scholars that the construction of Lingraja Temple started in 6th century AD. Therefore, at least a part of the vast complex dates from that period. Apart from the main temple, there are about 150 other large and small shrines in the complex. To fully appreciate the grandeur of intricacies of these minor shrines, you should have plenty of time at hand.
Non-Hindus are not allowed to enter Lingraja Temple premises, as it is actively used for worship. And it is advisable not to attempt to do so either. However, you are not without luck There is a viewing platform which accords a magnificent view of the whole complex. Originally erected for Lord Curzon on the occasion of his visit, it is popular selfie point and accords great vantage spot for photographers.
Practical Tip: If you are planning to make an offering at the temple, it will make sense to you’re your visit in the morning. You will probably have to hire a priest, but it is not absolutely mandatory. If you do hire one, make sure that you negotiate the rates (dakshina) with them. Dakshina is usually to be given after completing your visit, not prior, and the priests will start with a certain pre-specified rate. You may have to haggle with them a bit.
Vaitala Deola Temple
This small temple has been one of my favorite monuments. So, on this trip I especially requested my guide to take me there. For long, I’ve been fascinated by this temple and the religious significance it has, and enamored by one of the sculptures on it’s outer wall.
There are many variations to it’s name , with Archeological Survey of India calls it as “Baital Deol”. It’s history is also equally intwined in mystery.
Vaitala Deola is situated about 1 km from famous Lingraja Temple. The location is in a rather non-descript part of old town.
Main temple is dedicated to Chamunda, the fearsome form of Mother Goddess Chandi. As shown in many representative images, her appearance is terrifying. The Goddess is deeply emaciated, almost skeletal, and she is shown sitting on a skeleton holding a severed head in one of her hands. In keeping with her form, the interior of temple is remarkably sedate, bereft of much ornamentation.
On the outside though, the temple has a series of “panels” with image of a celestial being at the helm of each. The carvings in many of the sections is quite intricate.
But the image that has fascinated me for long is of Goddess Durga slaying Mahisarura. The way this sculpture has been done is remarkable, it just appears to “fit” in the confined space without appearing constraint in any way. Like other stone figurines, it is damaged. The details of Goddess’s face has been lost, most probably due to attempts at desecration over these years. But it still has the power to stir up imagination..
I have a keen interest in ancient Indian sculpture and there are numerous truly beautiful ones, but this image of Goddess Durga in an otherwise little known temple remains one of my favorites.
On the outside of the temple, I found a palanquin. It also appeared to be quite old, although nowhere as close to temple itself. On enquiring, I was told that this is for use in ceremonial occasions.
Rajarani Temple
If you want to get a feel of Khajuraho without actually visiting that city, Rajarani Temple should be on top of your list of destinations. Not only is the overall architecture of this temple very similar (although of a less grander scale); but more importantly it is embellished with erotic sculptures just like the vaunted temples of Khajuraho.
Dedicated to Lord Shiva, Rajarani temple is so named because of material used in it’s construction – yellow and red sandstone. Therefore, the name Raja (King) and Rani (Queen). In line with other temples of Bhubaneshwar, this temple is also quite old. A tentative date at beginning of 11th century is proposed, which makes it a contemporary of the revered Puri Jagannath [Wikipedia link] Temple, but about 100 years younger than the main temple group of Khajuraho.
The presence of amorous figurines has made Rajarani locally famous as “Love Temple”. The main spire is intricately carved with figures of celestial bodies, giving the whole temple a timeless appearance.
Since it is located some distance away, Rajarani temple is not visited by many tourists. When I was there, most of the people around were locals. However, if you are interested in Indian sculpture, this is a must place to visit.
Parasuramesvara Temple
According to many historians, this may be oldest among all the extant temples in Bhubaneshwar. It is stipulated that the Parasuramesvara may be dating back to 650 AD or even earlier. And the rather ancient origins is clearly reflected in it’s architecture, the type of sculptures, and the overall feel one gets once they start exploring this structure.
It is part of a large temple complex with many magnificent temples interconnected by a park. While Parasuramesvara lies at the mouth of the complex, Mukhteshwar is at it’s other end. So, this will likely be the first structure you will encounter when coming from the main road. It is advisable to start your sojourn here. You will definitely have a unique and mesmerizing experience.
To begin with, the architecture of Parasuramesvara is quite peculiar with the main temple appearing glued to a hut-like assembly hall. A rather prominent & unique appearing linga dominates the far side of open courtyard. Not only is it quite unique in it’s appearance, it has a rather primitive quality, pretty much like the sculptures adoring the walls of temple. In fact, the rather unpolished nature of the figurines has the connotations of tribal art. Quite certainly, Parasuramesvara Temple belongs to an era & style unlike anything else in Bhubaneshwar, and possibly very few in rest of the country.
Mukhteswar Temple
Located at the edge of temple complex mentioned above, this rather small temple is famous for it’s ground-braking architecture. Aptly called as the “Gem of Kalinga Architecture”, the most unique architectural elements of Mukhteshwar Temple is it’s intricately carved gateway called Torana. A gateway is a very rare element in ancient temples, and none of the other temples in Bhubaneshwar has it.
To really appreciate the beauty of it’s delicately carved edifice, it must seen from up close. The edifice leads to a rather small temple, which feels cramped in some ways.
Next to the temple is a small pond which may have served as site for purification of devotees before they enter the temple.
Mukhteshwar was the last temple I visited during my trip, just before I headed to the airport. And it was where I got the light at it’s “best” with the setting Sun bathing the temple in golden light. It was perhaps the fitting culmination of a really memorable trip where I got some of the best photos.
Regarding Logistics..
Reaching there..
Bhubaneshwar is well connected by both air and train. Most tourists will probably prefer the former, and will land at Biju Patnaik International Airport. It has frequent flights from major hubs of India, including Delhi and Kolkata. Although designated as an international airport, I am not sure if it has many flights from foreign destinations.
From the airport, the best & most hassle-free means of getting into the town is through pre-paid taxi. You can avoid haggling with drivers or being over-charged later on.
Hotels & lodging
The city has many good hotels, but I will ask you to do your research before-hand. You should prefer the one which suits your budget and is conveniently located. I stayed at Hotel Suryansh located in Jaydev Vihar. It was a smaller boutique hotel located in rather quite part of the town.
What to eat
Odisha has a good selection of it’s traditional dishes, some of which are very close to Bengali cuisines. They are typically less spicy and a section of dishes may appear quite bland. Moreover, there are very few Odia dishes that are widely known.
If there is one advice
Getting around
Parting Words ..
I had a very enriching experience in Bhubaneshwar, the few hours roaming around temple complex was a journey through the time. However, unlike many cities in India and rest of the world, proper planning is required to make your trip truly enjoyable.
You will probably like to visit the city as part of Odisha’s “Golden Triangle” which also includes Konark and Puri. I will be covering these places in next 2 parts of this blog. Be sure to keep checking us out.
Until then, Au Revoir..
Sunita
